Tuesday, 7 February 2012

The End of a Journey


Okay, so here ends the fifth and final entry to the Russian chicken scratches. As most all of you know, I have returned to the USA. Family and close friends have most likely heard the story about how things ended but for those of you who haven't (and I don't mean that you're not good friends either), I will attempt to give as succinct explanation. 

If you have read the entirety of my blog, you could probably surmise that I think Russia is a wicked-cool place full of history, beauty, and intrigue. I have only great things to say about the country, save the toilets. The problem, and my reason for leaving, lies in the school that I was working for, and more specifically, the Canadian guy who ran it. The next section is a rather long and detailed explanation of what happened. If you don't care to read it and wish to hear a more interesting and entertaining story, skip to the last paragraph of this entry. 

Problem #1: There was no school. The "school" consisted of various rented rooms in Stavropol's public schools (k-12). In short, we were English contractors recruiting students from public schools to learn English in their respective school rooms. I have no reason to be confidential so I'll say that Mr. James Leonard (Canadian) completely lied to me on this rather important feature of the "school."  I had to travel by public transportation between schools and classes at my own expense. The furthest school was 45 minutes from my apartment. Forget the fact that some of the rooms didn't have a chalkboard or dry erase board. The books teachers used were missing pages and falling apart. We, as teachers, could not take them home to lesson plan either. Meanwhile, the students had shiny new books that, no doubt, they paid too much for. I hope this is beginning to illustrate the how the company works. 

Problem # 2: I was guaranteed 25 hours a week. To make this entry short, I never worked more than six hours a week the four weeks I was there. 

Problem #3: Mr. James Leonard did not want to pay me for work I did that was not teaching. And by this, I mean recruiting, advertising, and placement tests. The day after arriving, my employer instructed me to meet him at school #14 for placement tests. I was excited to start working. I spent 4 hours administering written and verbal English tests. This was when things started to seem strange (keep in mind, it's the second day). After completing the tests I asked Mr. Leonard if I would be paid for these hours, and to that he responded, "We'll find you compensation." I thought this a very strange response but figured we would be able to talk about it later. The next week I spent my time recruiting. Now what this means is I spent 16 hours or so going to various Russian schools with co-owner Tatiana to recruit for our school.  We visited multiple schools and classes. She would give an introduction and then I would give a lame schpeel about why you should come to our schools. The children were delighted to see and hear an American in their class; most of them had never seen an American in person. Lol, I know it sounds stupid but they really wanted to learn English from an American. Therefore, my role in these recruiting sessions was vital. The school sold students based on me. This continued on into week two. I had not taught in a classroom yet.

Problem #4: No hours. Beginning week three I had taught four hours. This, of course, was below the 25 I had agreed to receive. Suffice to say, I was strictly bored and frustrated that this was all I had to show for week three. In addition, I had not seen a Rouble yet for any of my work.  This is the week that things started to get seriously uncomfortable. I had already been feeling a bit uneasy about everything that had happened since my arrival.  Just the way Mr. Leonard carried himself made me uncomfortable.  This is probably the hardest thing to explain, but he came off to me very reminiscent of a pedophile.  If he wasn’t one, he sure was as creepy as one.  He would call me every morning and night to “chat.”  We didn’t talk about anything related to school.  It was extremely awkward.  Anyways, Mr. Leonard informed me that we should meet on Wednesday to discuss payment. This meeting was paramount in my decision to come back. 

Problem #5: The meeting. The meeting took place at the school office. I walked in to Mr. Leonard sitting patiently at the table where a pile of papers awaited me. He informed me that the school pays bi-weekly, handing me a sheet with a place to put my hours for the first two weeks of work. I put down the 16 hours that I had worked and handed it to him. Keep in mind that I was promised a minimum of 25 hours a week. The whole paper was essentially a farce since I had only "taught" for 4 hours in the past two weeks. However, I had worked 16 hours recruiting and advertising. It only makes sense that I would put down 20 since I was still 30 hours below what I should have had for two weeks of work. When I handed him the paper with 20 hours written down on it, he literally popped a gasket.  He immediately started yelling at me, asking me what I was trying to do.  I explained my very reasonable argument for hours worked. I also pointed out that it was a little ridiculous to be getting this angry with me when I was still 30 hours below my minimum required hours for two weeks.  Mr. Leonard told me, “You have a very North American frame of Mind.  This is Russia, and things are done differently here.  You should understand that.”  I told him, “Well, we are both North Americans so I don’t really see how this affects us.  My employer told me to go somewhere and do something for an allotted amount of time.  Why would I not receive compensation for this? It doesn’t matter if I wasn’t teaching; I was still working for you.  The soil that we stand on holds absolutely no significance to this fact.” Mr. Leonard continued to rant and rave about how this was incorrect.  I kept repeating the fact that I was being completely reasonable and strictly business-like.  Towards the end of the meeting he gave me money (out of his wallet) for 4 hours of work, stating that the other hours did not count, as I was not “teaching.”  Upon leaving the meeting I seriously pondered the future of my Russian teaching experience.  Is this the guy that I want to work for the entire year? What do I have to gain after a year of working with someone whom I would have serious conflicts with? I went home deep in thought.  I had already done a year of teaching in Morocco.  It was a great year, no doubt, but it also wasn’t the easiest year.  However, I had fellow American teachers to commiserate with (haha) and a great boss that was reasonable.  In Russia, I was by myself, forced to work with a boss that was completely unreasonable and undeniably perfidious.  Add to that the fact that I wouldn’t really be able to use him as a reference at the end of the year, as I would undoubtedly be in conflict with him throughout the year.  There was also the simple fact that I wasn’t making enough money to live.  Forget about traveling.  The only thing I saw to gain after a year in Russia was language experience.  This, of course, was a main goal of living and working in Russia, but when compared to all the cons, I decided that it wasn’t enough to keep me there.  It was one of the hardest decisions of my life, but ultimately, I decided to leave the school, Stavropol, and my life of working around the world.  I have not even slightly regretted this decision now that I have been back in the U.S. for the past four months.  It would’ve been a long, hard, and discouraging year in Russia working under someone who thought he could take advantage of me.  He never really understood how to play poker.  He needed me more than I needed him and he never recognized that or gave me the respect I gave him.  So here ends the “short” story of my decision to leave Russia. 

Now, I will describe the 35-hour train ride north to Moscow.

There’s not too much to say about a 35-hour train ride besides…it takes 35 hours.  However, during this particular extravaganza, I had a considerable amount of spontaneous enjoyment.  Before boarding the two cabin train headed for Moscow I asked a random guy if this was indeed the correct train.  Noticing my obvious accent, he asked if I spoke English, followed by an inquiry about where I come from.  When I told him I was an American, he was immediately elated.  Of course, he asked what I was doing all the way down in Stavropol.  After a brief conversation with the man, I boarded the train, ready to begin the journey.  Stavropol is the first or last stop for trains traveling to or from Moscow.  The train builds carts as it goes, ultimately becoming a rather large train by the end.  Lurching forward, the train left at 7am only to stop about 4 hours later to link up with other carts.  I’m not totally sure what town we stopped in but I know it was close to the Krasnodar region of southern Russia.  When the train hadn’t moved for an hour I became restless and got out for a stretch.  I then saw my friend, whose name was Alexander, and asked him why we were stopped for so long.  He informed me that, in fact, we would not be leaving for another 3 hours.  He subsequently asked me if I would care for a beer.  Alexander was a particularly generous man.  He proceeded buy me beer the rest of the day despite my vehement protests.  We ended up walking outside the train station to the center of town where there was a festival going on.  It was the birthday of the city (and I wish I could remember the name) and a parade bustled throughout the street accompanied by a variety of carnival rides and games.  One of these particular games was an AK-47 air-soft gun shooting contest.  The goal was to shoot down 10 out of 10 cans at the end of the range.  This, of course, was particularly hard since the gun was wildly inaccurate.  After figuring out it shot to the right, I had already missed two cans.  Grabbing a hot dog wrapped in a croissant, I boarded the train with my new friend and proceeded swap stories over a handful of Russian beers.  An interesting side note: up until only a few years ago, beer was not legally an alcohol beverage in Russia.  Suffice to say, stereotypes of Russians drinking copious amounts of alcohol is by no means a stereotype, rather, a fact.  After observing Alexander becoming relatively inebriated, I decided to retire to my sleeping quarters.  I read a book until night came and fell asleep rather easily.  I was awakened by the sounds of his voice calling me to come to his cabin.  It was quite apparent that he had neither stopped drinking nor gotten any sleep. I began drinking beer at 10 in the morning, as to not refuse his hospitality.  I kept it moderate however.  I had wandered over to his cabin (3rd class) where all the beds and chairs were open in a long, narrow room.  I had already become a bit of an intrigue to the guests on the train since not many Americans ever make it that far down south.  Alexander and I began to engage in a rather intense game of cards while most of the cabin quietly observed.  Things started to get slightly more comical when he decided that we should start playing for money.  The game was blackjack.  It lasted for about an hour and a half.  There really isn’t a great way to describe the true nature of the event but it was nothing short of surreal.  After winning consistent small hand after small hand, he finally got me with a big bet.  I called his bluff, but I was wrong.  With his new-found confidence, he decided making even dumber decisions.  At the climax of the game, the entire cabin was watching us, chanting, “Vegas! Vegas! Vegas!”  I ended up completely destroying him and walking away with about $30.  It’s moments like those when I wish someone were there to witness and share the comedy of the experience.  It is also these moments that I live and thrive for.  It is somewhat sad to think that these random occurrences abroad will dwindle as I get older.  I have had a crazy last couple years of traveling filled with funny, interesting, sketchy, sad, adventurous, and any other adjectives you can think of stories.  I thank God and all the people who made it possible, helped me along the way, and participated in my life.  It has been a wonderful ride.  I will always hold those memories and people dear.  If you think you’re one of those people, you are.  Now, if you could only get me to write a Morocco blog…I think I will have to consult Daniel Hamblin for that…Let me know what you think Mr. Hamblin.  I hope this blog has been fun to read; I had a blast writing it.  Take care and you might see a Moroccan blog in the future...It will be vastly longer than this one.











Monday, 19 September 2011

Apple-scented toilet paper, cigarette-flavored cookies, 184 Roubles, soccer games, and eggs.

I guess the title pretty well sums up what this entry will be about.  Let’s start with the first topic: apple-scented toilet paper.  One could take this innovation in bathroom technology in a variety of ways but let’s just say that, for the record, what a…not so bad idea.  Don’t be fooled, it’s not only apple, but a variety of aromatic essences to choose from such as mango, orange, and even fresh mountain stream.  I feel that every American should jump on the toilet with the fragrant confidence that Russia offers.  I offer this slice of novelty Russia an A+.

On to the second category: cigarette-flavored cookies.  In reality, this is probably not a completely fair or accurate description of the true situation but let me put it this way…have you ever eaten a cookie that gave you a distinct aftertaste of a freshly smoked tobacco stick?  Being a morning coffee drinker I have to have something to snack on or my stomach gets upset.  For the past couple weeks I have been buying new breakfast treats to complement my coffee.  They have all been fantastic except for the package I opened yesterday.  What seemed to be perfectly delicious cookies/breakfast biscuits turned out to taste like South Carolina.  After indulging in a single cookie I thought perhaps it was a faulty breakfast biscuit and quite surely the next one would redeem its predecessor and get the tar taste out of my mouth.  I was thoroughly disappointed when I finished the second one and felt like I’d been a chain smoker for 40 years.  I gagged, slightly, and threw the rest of the package into the garbage feeling both disgusted and somewhat sad for now having nothing to munch with coffee.  Don’t let this scare you if you desire a Russian cookie.  Everything has been great.  In fact, I almost don’t want to blame the brand.  Perhaps circumstance had it that Vladimir Vladimirovich accidentally dropped his cigarette into this batch as he was distraught over his recent divorce.  I’ll maybe give them another try after a few months.

184 Roubles.  Word.  I’ve taken up the street life.  A brief walk down the main stretch in town will delight you with various musicians trying to make a few Roubles by playing their instruments.  For a while now I’ve wanted to work the streets and see if I have what it takes.  Sure enough, I took my guitar out on a bright fall day around four o’clock.  I’m not going to lie.  I put a couple Roubles into the open guitar case to make it look like I had least something.  However, after the first couple minutes several sparkling pieces of change came flying through the air to find their way in my guitar case.  A little later a drunken Kazakh man offered me a cigarette, which I respectfully declined, and proceeded to freestyle over my guitar.  Although funny at first, he ruined my business.  People didn’t want to be around us and I didn’t really know how to break it to him.  So, I patiently smiled and waited until he left.  I was back on the grind.  It seems cool that you could earn money playing music on the street but after a while, your hands start to hurt and you keep coming back to the same riffs that you notice people give you money for.  After an hour and a half I retired but not completely by myself.  A rather intoxicated lady asked me if I could esquire her to the nearest bathroom.  I felt honored that a fellow Russian would put so much trust into my navigational skills in Stavropol.  Luckily we were close to a toilet that I walk by every day.  In fact, it’s the only public toilet in Stavropol that I know so she was lucky.  Long story short, 184 Roubles and pride bonus for toilet location knowledge.

The last one seems like it should be exciting but it wasn’t totally the case.  I went to a soccer game yesterday.  FK Dynamo Stavropol.  Let’s just say the most exciting part of the game was when a player tripped over himself with the ball and faceplanted.  Other interesting things at the game include the dude next to me eating dried fish, a wonderful aroma that lasted the whole game, and the beloved drunken fan who yelled the same thing over and over again for 90 minutes.  Anyway, it was fun to go nonetheless and I’m excited for the World Cup to be here in 2018.  Go Rassiya.

Oh yeah, the last topic.  Eggs. They’re great here.  The best I’ve had.  Eat them if you come to Stavropol.

Lenin's Statue at...Lenin's Square

FK Dynamo Stavropol

yup.

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

My City


Who would’ve thought that the weather in Russia in mid-September could be so pleasant?  However, don’t be fooled.  I am about as far south as you can go in Russia without chillin in Chechnya or climbing over the Caucasus mountains to say hello to my friends in Georgia or Armenia.  It so turns out that I am on the same parallel as Minneapolis, MN.  The difference is that I am flanked on either side by the Black and Caspian seas.  It’s actually warmer than Minneapolis could ever hope to be in the winter.  Having said all this, it is nice to feel the fall season again.  I haven’t felt one since fall 2009.  The leaves are changing and a brisk wind whips through the air, carrying with it the smell of autumn. 
              
Stavropol is a beautiful city full of wooded parks, towering churches, and Soviet monuments.  A leisurely stroll through the city center will treat you to a variety of modern shops and the smell of spiced kebabs, beer, and fresh fruit.  Dispersed throughout the modern city are reminders of the Soviet past as well as the grandeur of Russian Orthodox churches.  The sun gleaming off the domes of the largest church in the city can be viewed from my windows.  It has been under construction for a few years, as it is being rebuilt since it was completely destroyed in WWII.  Not too far from the church a giant monument of the famous Soviet “Unknown Soldier” guards a scenic outlook facing north that displays the beauty of the forested city.  The Unknown Soldier represents a piece of the soul of the Russian people and the sacrifices that they made in defending their country in WWII.  The Soviet Union lost nearly 26 million people during that time.  A couple more minutes of walking through town you can see Lenin’s square, boasting a statue of the man himself.  In the immediate area around Lenin’s square you can see an array of gardens, parks, and even a soccer stadium.  FK Stavropol is the soccer team here.  It’s pretty small but the first game is on the 18th of September and I plan to go.   All in all, I’m glad I chose to come to a smaller-sized town with a distinct sense of Russian soul.  You can view the pictures to see what I’m talking about!
              
I started my Job this week and it’s somewhat too early to make a complete assessment about it.  However, so far, I love it.  The kids (and adults) are great and eager to learn.  It feels good to be back.  I will post something next week about the job when I know more.  As always the president’s superior Judo techniques and unmatchable mystique will crush any dreams you had of being cool.  Check out this link to see what I mean: http://www.theatlantic.com/infocus/2011/09/vladimir-putin-action-man/100147/











Wednesday, 7 September 2011

Recollection


Ok, so I’ve lost track of the days but here’s what I can compile from the last couple few.  I actually had to stay another night and day in Moscow, as my train bound for Stavropol was intended to pass through Ukraine.  This was a problem, however, as I do not have a visa for Ukraine and, more importantly, I do not have multiple-entry visa for Russia (it’s only a single-entry visa).  I immediately booked a different train that stayed in Russia.  It could have been a huge problem but it actually worked out great to stay in Moscow for another day.  I got to do a lot of things I wouldn’t have done otherwise, at least, not until the next time in Moscow. 

Don’t get me wrong, Red Square was one of the most amazing sights I’ve ever visited and I’d recommend it for anyone traveling to Moscow, but I think the convent at Novidevichy was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen.  Just a couple metro stops from Red Square, the convent was full of towering steeples washed in gold surrounded by cool green gardens.  I spent a good hour in a place that could be walked in two minutes.  It was a place unlike any other.  I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.  After reluctantly leaving the convent, I took a trip to the nearby cemetery where I saw numerous famous Russian poets, writers, comedians, politicians, etc.  Yelstin and Gorbachev’s wife were among the graves.  By this time, I was extremely tired from walking around so I decided to stop by a Georgian restaurant on the way to the metro.  It turned out to be an awesome decision.  I ate some Georgian Borsch along with…I honestly can’t remember the name but I have a picture of it…  Basically, it was a pita-like bread filled with goat cheese and butter. Not too bad.  In fact, the opposite of horrible. 

After the extra day in Moscow, I was ready to take the 32-hour train ride south to Stavropol.  I hopped on the metro bound for the train station.  What can I really say about Russian trains? Not too bad.  What can I really say about Russian toilets?  Nothing that hasn’t already been said about Afghanistan.  The Russian train was a decent experience.  I had my own bed and area and that was good enough for me.  The time flew by and I ended up meeting my cabin mates from Syria.  My Russian language skills are pretty horrible but it was nice to be able to speak to someone on the train.  It was somewhat of a bizarre experience, speaking Arabic on a Russian train.  I guess all that Morocco B.S. was worth something…Bottom line, I’m mildly impressed with Russian trains, and hey, they’re right on time!















That’s all for now.  I’ve already arrived in Stavropol and moved into my flat.  So far everything looks great but it’s too early to tell.  All I can tell you is that my apartment is much nicer than I thought it would be and I have a crystal clear view of a new gold-tipped Russian church outside my window.  Word. Remember, the president could beat your ass with mad judo techniques.

Thursday, 1 September 2011

First couple days in Moscow


Upon arrival to the airport, the airline had lost my luggage and I had to deal with them for about 2 hours until I actually got all my stuff.  Then I found out that my debit card was denied.  I had 50 dollars on me so I exchanged that and hoped it would be enough.  I had to take an express train from the airport to Moscow city center for 45 minutes.  Upon arrival, I went down into the maze that is the Moscow Metro.  There is absolutely no English anywhere in the Metro and each stop is not even marked in Russian!  You literally have to the count the number of stops based on where you think you are located.  It took me a bit but I figured it out.  When I got out of the Metro at Pushkinskaya I had a map out looking like a total tourist.  A woman stopped to help me and after a few minutes of speaking with here I found out she was from Stavropol, the city where I will be teaching 32 hours south of Moscow.  She walked me straight to the hostel, gave me her number, and told me that she could help me if I have any problems getting to Stavropol.  She also has a brother there that she said could give me advice.  So that was how I got here; I basically lucked out.  I'm glad I can read Russian or else I would've been stuck in the Metro for a while.


It's hard to describe Moscow in a blog, especially since it's unlike anything I've ever seen.  Walking through the streets these past couple days I don't really know what to compare it to.  It is strikingly unique and unmatched in grandeur.  Everything you see here is awesomely majestic.  Walking to the Red Square was something that I have dreamed of since I was young.  Strolling through the square, I admired the spectacular architecture of Muscovite Russia.  St. Basil's cathedral 10x cooler than any pictures you've seen of it.  It looks like a candy/ice cream palace that you could eat with a spoon.  All of the architecture was awesome but I have to say that the most interesting thing I've done thus far is visit the tomb of Lenin.  His body is preserved and embalmed for all of the public to see.  He has been chillin in the preserved container since 1924.  Having said that, he looks pretty good! After that, I walked around the city center seeing numerous Orthodox churches and monuments until i was too tired to walk. Today, I will try to visit more sites and see more of the city.  It's too much to take in and I won't be able to visit it all.  I will be back to Moscow for sure.

I leave for Stavropol, where I will be teaching for a year, today at 9:45pm.  It's a 32-hour train ride south. Yeah, it's that far from Moscow.  More late and remember, Putin knows Judo.